Concrete nails bear a passing resemblance to wood nails, but they have thicker shanks that frequently have vertical ribs for easier penetration. Because they are made of hardened steel, they pose a danger to the person driving them -- because striking one with a hammer also made of hardened steel, such as a framing hammer, has the potential to send tiny shards of metal flying through air. These shards can penetrate skin and injure unprotected eyes. Safety precautions include wearing eye protection and gloves, as well as driving the nails with a small sledge hammer, which is made of softer steel than a framing hammer, so it doesn't shatter and throw off metal splinters.
Drill a pilot hole into the concrete wall, using a drill and masonry bit. The hole should be the same size in diameter as the masonry nail anchor. Insert the anchor into the hole so the top rim is flush with the surface of the wall. Hammer the nail into the anchor. Masonry nail anchors will hold light to medium weight objects such as furring strips or metal framing. They are not removable once the nail has been driven.
Drive the masonry nails directly into concrete walls with a hammer. Masonry nails are hardened and have grooved shafts and flat heads. Masonry nails should penetrate the surface of the concrete wall to a depth of 3/4 to 1 inch for a solid hold. If wooden studs are being installed, drill holes through the wood to create a clear path for the nails before driving them into the concrete wall behind. Drive in nails at both ends of the wooden stud first to hold it place.
It's relatively easy to drive concrete nails into green concrete, but if you have to nail into fully cured concrete, you may need to drill a pilot hole for each nail. The masonry bit you use to drill the hole should have a diameter at least an eighth-inch smaller than the nail shank -- if it's any larger, the nail won't hold. Always vacuum the dust out of the holes you drill before driving a nail. Otherwise, the dust can lubricate the nail shank and cause the nail to back out over time.
To save time, many builders drive concrete nails with powder-actuated tools. These use a cartridge filled with gunpowder to drive each nail with such force that it can take a ton of leverage to extract it. PATs aren't appropriate for all concrete surfaces -- you can crack the concrete if it's too hard. In order to check, tap a test nail into the concrete surface. If it makes a well-defined dent, you can use a PAT, but avoid the tool if the concrete shatters. To use a PAT, hold it vertically on the wood you are attaching and strike the plunger once with a mallet. Wear face and ear protection, as well as protective gloves.
Whether you are trying to finish a concrete basement or just hang a tool hook on the wall, the odds are at some point a nail will have to be driven through a cement wall. The task may seem impossible, but with the proper masonry nails and hammer, along with a bit of know-how and some basic equipment, it is certainly doable. Once the task has been mastered, driving nails into cement and most any other masonry material can be accomplished without a problem.
Drive cut nails into concrete block walls along the seams. Cut nails are wedge-shaped with flat heads and angled shafts. Cut nails can be driven directly through wood studs but will grip well only in mortar or other soft, concrete bonding materials. When installing wooden studs on a concrete block wall, drive the first cut nail through the center of the beam, working outward from there.More information, view www.din571.com
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